The History of Modern American Perfumery

When most people think of fragrance, they often associate fine perfumes with France. However, the United States also has a rich history in perfumery dating back to the early 20th century. American perfumers and fragrance houses have made significant contributions to the world of scents, creating legendary perfumes that are cherished by fragrance enthusiasts worldwide. Here’s a glimpse into some of the key figures and iconic American fragrances:

1. Tuvache:

  • American perfumery began in 1939 with Tuvache, founded by Bernadine. During a time when French perfumes were all the rage, she created a fictional character, Madame Tuvache, to make her mark in the industry.
  • Tuvache’s most iconic fragrance is Jungle Gardenia, a perfume that was once considered the sexiest scent of its time. It was beloved by Old Hollywood stars like Barbara Stanwyck, Joan Crawford, and Natalie Wood.

2. Revlon:

  • Founded by Charles Revson in 1933, Revlon became a billion-dollar beauty industry. Although their first fragrance was Norman Norrell’s Norrell, it was the introduction of “Charlie” in 1973 that catapulted Revlon’s fragrance business. This perfume represented the modern, independent woman.
  • Charlie Blue is a variation of the original Charlie perfume, featuring sparkling aldehydes, peach, carnation, and spices.

3. Elizabeth Arden:

  • Elizabeth Arden introduced Blue Grass in 1934, a clean floral classic still appreciated today.
  • In 1989, Arden launched Red Door, a lush floral perfume known for its notes of orchid, jasmine, wild violet, orange blossom, and lily of the valley.

4. Helena Rubenstein:

  • In 1941, Helena Rubenstein created Heaven Scent, which she famously launched by dropping balloons with perfume samples from her penthouse in New York.
  • Heaven Scent is a fresh floral bouquet with notes of bergamot, lemon, orange, neroli, rose, carnation, lily of the valley, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, oakmoss, and musk.

5. Estée Lauder:

  • In 1953, Estée Lauder introduced “Youth Dew,” a spicy ambery fragrance that made waves in the industry. It was marketed ingeniously with a floor demonstration in a department store that resulted in high demand.
  • Aramis, launched in 1966, became a classic men’s cologne and the first prestige male fragrance in department stores.

6. Oleg Cassini:

  • The fashion designer Oleg Cassini, who dressed stars like Grace Kelly and Jackie Kennedy, introduced Cassini Cologne. This scent is an ambery woody fragrance with notes of citrus, musk, patchouli, and vetiver.

7. Halston:

  • Halston, born Roy Halston Frowick, was a legendary fashion designer of the 1970s. He released his iconic perfume “Halston” in 1975, with a bottle designed by his friend Elsa Peretti.
  • Halston is a chypre/floral fragrance featuring citrus, green leaves, peach, carnation, and spices, with a dry down of incense, sandalwood, and amber.

8. Calvin Klein:

  • Calvin Klein, a designer known for his minimalistic fashion, made headlines with provocative advertisements. In 1980, he featured a young Brooke Shields in an ad for “Calvins.”
  • In 1994, Calvin Klein launched “CK1,” a gender-fluid fragrance with fresh and clean notes like pineapple, green notes, mandarin orange, papaya, and musk.

9. Ralph Lauren:

  • Born in the Bronx, Ralph Lauren created an idealized American world in fashion and fragrance, often inspired by American upper-class lifestyle.
  • In 1978, he introduced “Polo,” a classic men’s cologne known for its complex blend of notes, including tobacco, leather, juniper, and oakmoss.

10. Demeter:

  • Founded in 1993 by Christopher Brosius and Christopher Grable, Demeter was the first company to capture realistic smells. They offered a gender-fluid line of fragrances.
  • Demeter’s collection has expanded to include over 300 scents, with popular ones like Thunderstorm, Baby Powder, Funeral Home, and Pineapple.

These American perfumers and fragrances have left a significant mark on the world of perfumery, creating iconic scents that continue to be cherished and worn by fragrance enthusiasts.

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